RECIPE

La Terra Fortunata: The Splendid Food and Wine of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy's Great Undiscovered Region

By Fred Plotkin (Broadway)

PENNE WITH CINNAMON RICOTTA
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Pinch of salt
1 pound penne
12 ounces fresh ricotta
2 teaspoons freshly ground cinnamon, plus more if desired
1/2 teaspoon sugar, optional

Set a large pot of cold water to boil. When it reaches a full boil, add a pinch of salt. When the water returns to a boil, add the penne and cook until al dente, according to the package instructions. One minute before the penne are supposed to be done, taste one and decide for yourself how much more cooking you need.

While the pasta is cooking, prepare the sauce. Put the cheese into a large bowl (big enough to contain the hot pasta). Stir the cheese with a wooden or plastic spoon for a minute to make it creamier. Add the cinnamon and stir in well. Taste for sweetness and, if you wish, stingily add a little sugar and cinnamon. Add one tablespoon of hot water from the pasta pot and stir it into the cheese to make it creamier. You might wish the sauce to be even creamier, in which case you should then stir in another tablespoon of hot water.

Once the pasta is cooked, drain in a colander but leave a little hot water clinging to the penne. Transfer to the ricotta sauce, toss well and serve immediately.

Yields 6 to 8 servings.

Recommended wines: Ribolla Gialla, Pinot Bianco or Tocai.