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From New York:
Rao's Homemade

The Taste of a Legend

By Kevin Schoeler

If you don't live in New York City, chances are you've never heard of Rao's. If you do live in New York City, it's unlikely you've ever eaten there. That is because you'll never get a table at "The Hangout" unless you are the right important person—like Pataki or Paltrow or DeNiro.

The 108-year-old Italian neighborhood restaurant is a ten-table family-run place with a storied past-tucked away up in Harlem at 114th St. and Pleasant Avenue. Those who have eaten there talk reverently about simple Southern Italian food like Rao's Famous Lemon Chicken, broccoli rabe pasta or a veal chop with peppers. Great pastas and sauces. Cheesecake for dessert. Grappa. Nothing fancy, but the flavors are brilliant and the recipes are family-authentic.

The good news is that Rao's sells an exceptional line of sauces under its Rao's Homemade™ brand. The tomato base is fresh, rich and deep. You really can taste the basil, garlic and oregano in the flavorful Marinara Sauce. Arrabbiata Sauce spices things up with a perfect dose of crushed red pepper. Cuore Di Pomodoro Sauce adds prosciutto and onion. Siciliana Sauce doesn't skimp on the roasted eggplant. The Puttanesca and Vodka Sauces, like the others, are so delicious that you can pretend you made them yourself.

There's quite a bit more. Rao's Roasted Peppers are the best you'll find inside, or maybe even outside, a jar. They're flecked with pine nuts and white raisins and packed in a fine olive oil. Then there's Rao's line of toothsome artisan pastas. In addition to standards like spaghetti, penne and rigatoni, you'll find pappadelle, ditali, cavatelli and more.

Good, but not as exciting, are Rao's Olive Oil, vinegars, dressings, marinades and vinaigrettes. But they will make it quick and easy for you to duplicate (well, almost) signature dishes like Rao's Famous Lemon Chicken, Arugula and White Bean Salad, and Seafood Salad.

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Rao's Homemade™ products are expensive but not unreasonable. Considering the flavor and quality, they deserve the premium. It's nice to know that even though they won't give you a table, they'll still let you eat their food.

Rao's Homemade™ products are available at www.raos.com and at select retailers. You can also eat Rao's food at the Theater District eatery Baldoria—owned and operated by Rao's family members Frank Pellegrino, Jr. and Carla Pellegrino. There's always the do-it-yourself approach with Rao's Cookbook, or go up to the corner of 114th and Pleasant and have a drink at the "The Hangout" itself. Knowing the right important person is no guarantee, but it's worth a try.


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