From
New York:
Rao's Homemade
The
Taste of a Legend
By Kevin Schoeler
If
you don't live in New York City, chances are you've never
heard of Rao's. If you do live in New York City, it's unlikely
you've ever eaten there. That is because you'll never get
a table at "The Hangout" unless you are the right
important personlike Pataki or Paltrow or DeNiro.
The
108-year-old Italian neighborhood restaurant is a ten-table
family-run place with a storied past-tucked away up in Harlem
at 114th St. and Pleasant Avenue. Those who have eaten there
talk reverently about simple Southern Italian food like
Rao's Famous Lemon Chicken, broccoli rabe pasta or a veal
chop with peppers. Great pastas and sauces. Cheesecake for
dessert. Grappa. Nothing fancy, but the flavors are brilliant
and the recipes are family-authentic.
The
good news is that Rao's sells an exceptional line of sauces
under its Rao's Homemade brand. The tomato base is
fresh, rich and deep. You really can taste the basil, garlic
and oregano in the flavorful Marinara Sauce. Arrabbiata
Sauce spices things up with a perfect dose of crushed red
pepper. Cuore Di Pomodoro Sauce adds prosciutto and onion.
Siciliana Sauce doesn't skimp on the roasted eggplant. The
Puttanesca and Vodka Sauces, like the others, are so delicious
that you can pretend you made them yourself.
There's
quite a bit more. Rao's Roasted Peppers are the best you'll
find inside, or maybe even outside, a jar. They're flecked
with pine nuts and white raisins and packed in a fine olive
oil. Then there's Rao's line of toothsome artisan pastas.
In addition to standards like spaghetti, penne and rigatoni,
you'll find pappadelle, ditali, cavatelli and more.
Good,
but not as exciting, are Rao's Olive Oil, vinegars, dressings,
marinades and vinaigrettes. But they will make it quick
and easy for you to duplicate (well, almost) signature dishes
like Rao's Famous Lemon Chicken, Arugula and White Bean
Salad, and Seafood Salad.
Rao's
Homemade products are expensive but not unreasonable.
Considering the flavor and quality, they deserve the premium.
It's nice to know that even though they won't give you a
table, they'll still let you eat their food.
Rao's Homemade products are available at www.raos.com
and at select retailers. You can also eat Rao's food at
the Theater District eatery Baldoriaowned
and operated by Rao's family members Frank Pellegrino, Jr.
and Carla Pellegrino. There's always the do-it-yourself
approach with Rao's
Cookbook, or go up to the corner of 114th and Pleasant
and have a drink at the "The Hangout" itself.
Knowing the right important person is no guarantee, but
it's worth a try.
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