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Chocolates That Comply
Payard Kosher Chocolates
By Barbara Bowman

Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro is renowned for its pastries and sweet creations such as classic Parisian macarons, the Eau de Rose confection (white chocolate ganache with rosewater) and the Beaux-Arts Cake (cassis mousse, passion fruit cream with sablé breton). After numerous requests from clients, chef-owner François Payard has released a kosher line of his famous chocolates.

The Kosher Collection Chocolates ($35) by Payard come elegantly packed in a soft yellow box. The pistachio almond paste chocolate has a soft mouth feel, but neither the pistachio nor the almond flavors are very apparent, which is also true of the vanilla ganache covered dark chocolate. However, the cinnamon ganache covered dark chocolate is a delightful surprise. The cinnamon has a freshly grated, pure taste that isn’t overpowering and balances the subtle flavor of the dark chocolate. Then, there’s the honey ganache dark covered-chocolate, which tastes like biting into fresh honeycomb, making it a real pleasure. The ganache coffee covered dark chocolate is slightly bitter and certainly not too sweet. But the loveliest of all is the praline wafer covered dark chocolate with its nice interplay of textures between the crunchy wafer and the creamy chocolate and praline filling. All of the chocolates are beautifully hand-crafted with simple but elegant gold designs.

Francois Chocolate Bar. 714 Madison Avenue, 4th floor (between 63rd and 64th streets), New York, NY 10065 , (212) 759 1600, www.payard.com.

(Published: 12/02/05)

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