America's foremost authority on all things cheese, Steven Jenkins, can be found in New York City at Fairway Market. "The eminence grise of America Cheese Mongers," as he's been dubbed by The New York Times, author of the award-winning Cheese Primer and inductee into the Guilde des Fromagers, has propelled the store to the industry leader on the cheese market. Fairway Market "were the first to recognize that America could, should, would and now does produce fabulous cheese."

His Cheese Primer, as does cheese, just gets tastier as it ages. Originally published in 1996, it's in its sixth edition, telling you everything you need to know about the hundreds of cheeses that have become available in this country. Region-by-region, Jenkins covers all the major cheeses from France, Italy, Switzerland, Canada, and the United States. He includes information on judging, buying, storing, serving, and enjoying the tremendous variety of cheeses available at food shops and supermarkets today.

Other top purveyors in the city include the Ideal Cheese Shop on 942 1st Ave. (at 52nd St.). Try Tibetan Yak Cheese from China or Vacherin Mont d'Or, a winter cheese. Also, check out Murray's Cheese Shop, which is celebrating Portuguese Cheese Month. Visit their site for locations.

Author Laura Werlin, who recently published The All American Cheese and Wine Book, has her own favorites in the region: In Brooklyn, Lioni Lattinici offers very fine kosher-certified organic cheeses as well as whole milk mozzarella, mild white cheddar and Monterey Jack. Call 800-528-3252.

Coach Farm in Pine Plains, a tiny rural village just two hours from Manhattan, also makes authentic artisanal cheeses the old-fashioned way. Try their triple cream goat cheese.

In the Hudson Valley Werlin recommends cheesemakers Old Chatham Sheepherding Company and Bobolink LLCDairy/Grasslands Cheese Consortium. The latter holds public tastings every Saturday 9 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sunday noon-5 p.m.

We hope you will support your local and other artisan cheesemakers in their quest to perpetuate a lost or disappearing) art. Scientific studies have revealed that the enzymes in raw milk cheese are actually good for you. The beneficial aspects are improved digestion and fulfillment of your daily calcium requirement to name a few. Despite the relatively high cost of certain cheeses, they still fare better than prescriptive medication. And, it's fun to learn about the topic, the geography, the origin and history surrounding cheese. So say cheese and keep smiling.

For other things cheese and additional resources, check out Slow Food, Fast Food.