From Napa Valley:
The Barbecued Oyster King
Master Mollusks in Three Steps
By Bob Ecker

Oysters grilling with sauce

"The most important thing," says Charles Diegel, "is to have a good glove." And with that, using his heavy canvas glove and old sturdy knife, Diegel expertly shucks a steaming oyster. As expected, the juices run out hot and clear. He then lays the oyster shell on the grill to simmer.

Diegel is known around Napa as the "Barbecued Oyster King," preparing delicious barbecued oysters, cooked in his inimitable fashion. Diegel's unique, three step cooking process works to perfection and his oysters are now legendary throughout Napa Valley. He often serves up oysters at events and private functions, but is best known for participation at the Friday night Chef's Market in downtown Napa. Customers line up at the sight and smell of the marvelous mollusks. "The oysters sell themselves," laughs Diegel, with a tidy wave of his gloved hand.

Diegel didn't even eat oysters until a few years ago, when a Samoan friend turned him on to the taste. "We started by cooking them in butter and garlic at first. It was great for people like me who were afraid of oysters." His entire family learned to love them, and he even cooked thousands of oysters for his own wedding. Diegel explains his culinary philosophy, "I love to cook and eat, it's as simple as that."

The Oyster King at work

The Napa Chef's Market brings together many styles of food, but clearly Diegel's barbecued oysters are the number one hit with the crowd. "These oysters are amazing, really mouth watering, I love the pesto," says Tina Brite, visiting the Chef's Market from nearby American Canyon. His customers have several tasty sauces to choose from including teriyaki, butter and garlic, sesame soy, a homemade pesto, a barbecue sauce and special hot sauce.

Diegel, along with his wife Molly, father and father-in-law, usually sell over 700 oysters per Friday night. For a private event or gathering, Diegel estimates planning on providing a dozen oysters per person. Most of the oysters he uses come from Washington State, but any kind can be used. He prefers giant Pacific oysters, also called Miyagis. He suggests that the medium to large sized oysters are best for the grill.

Diegel utilizes a no-nonsense, yet tried-and-true method for barbecuing his oysters. He employs three separate grills, each with its own function. The first pops open the shell as the bi-valve cooks, the second holds the oysters at a simmer and the third grill is where the sauces get blended into the oyster. He uses two propane Char-Broils and a New Braunfels grill.

"You can use any barbecue," says Diegel, "but the best bet is propane to control the heat."

He likes his three-grill system so that the oyster shells don't get into the finished product. Diegel effortlessly places, shucks, steams and sauces his oysters. It's fun watching him in action.

Keeping the grills clean is the toughest part of the job, according to Diegel. He's always on the lookout for small pieces of oyster shell that can get into the burners. He also swears that oysters are indeed nature's aphrodisiac. "It's nature's Viagra," he says with a grin. Charles Diegel and his wife have five children.

Tasty drizzle of sauce

Depending on the sauce, Diegel suggests complementing the oysters with a Sauvignon Blanc or a hearty Zinfandel. His father Chuck, known as "The Mother Shucker," recommends drinking numerous cold, clear beers to help wash down a passel of oysters.

Diegel is even planning on crushing up this year's supply of empty oyster shells, to make a bocce ball court in the original Italian style. He is pleased that people enjoy his oysters, and has high hopes for the future. "I'd like to open a little restaurant one of these days, and of course, oysters will be a prominently featured item on the menu."

You can't miss the Diegel's Barbecued Oyster stand at the Chef's Market—it's the one with the healthy line. However, don't worry, the line moves, and the oysters are definitely worth a taste. Chef's Markets run on First Street in downtown Napa from 6 p.m. until about 10 p.m. each Friday night throughout the summer. After the Market ends, there are still a number of local restaurants and other nightspots worth trying.

DIEGEL'S 3 STEP PROCESS FOR PERFECT
BARBECUED OYSTERS:

Step 1:
Take the oysters straight out of the cooler, and put them directly onto grill No. 1, with high heat. Close the cover. Leave on for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove oysters from the grill, "whether they've popped open or not." Using a strong glove and a knife, open the shells. Diegel uses a stiff, stainless steel knife, and has used bait knives to open the oysters. "Good, cheap knives are great for shucking." Cut the muscle on the oyster to release it from the upper portion of the shell.

Step 2:
Put remaining oysters in the bottom half-shell directly on grill No. 2, at medium heat. The oysters should gently bubble in a combination of seawater and their own juices, steaming slightly. This warming station gets them ready for the last stage. Leave on no more than 10 minutes.

Step 3:
The sauce stage. Put warm oysters in the half-shell directly on to grill No. 3, at medium heat. Pour sauces over the oysters. When all the oysters have been sauced, close the cover. Cook for approximately 5 minutes. Take off, serve and eat immediately.

MOLLY DIEGEL'S SAUCE RECIPES,
APPLIED TO BARBECUED OYSTERS

PESTO:

Begin with blender full of clean, fresh basil leaves.
Add 1 and 1/2 cups of extra virgin olive oil.
Chop ingredients in blender until well mixed.
Add 10 Cloves of fresh garlic, peeled.
Chop.
Add: 1/4 cup pine nuts
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1 whole stick of butter of softened butter
Chop in blender until mixed...should be thick

Pour approximately 1/2 tablespoon Pesto sauce on each (now cooked) oyster. Grill over medium heat about two minutes, until mixture melts into oyster. Serve immediately and enjoy.

This recipe makes enough sauce for about two dozen oysters.

BUTTER & GARLIC SAUCE:

Microwave 2 cups butter, 1 minute high, until medium soft.
Add 3/4 cup peeled and minced fresh garlic and 1 tablespoon dry Italian seasoning.
Mix ingredients together in a glass bowl until thick.
Pour approximately 1/2 tablespoon butter and garlic sauce onto each (now cooked) oyster. Grill on medium heat about two minutes, until mixture melts into oyster. Serve immediately.

This recipe makes enough sauce for about two dozen oysters.

THE MOLLY SPECIAL:

Begin with hot oyster, apply melted butter and garlic sauce.
Take off the grill.
Sprinkle in (two to three shakes) of green jalapeño sauce. (Molly prefers Trappey's, or Tabasco brand)
Squeeze in 3 drops of fresh lemon juice.
Eat immediately