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Weir
Cooking in the City
by
Joanne Weir
Fans
of Joanne Weir's PBS shows, Weir Cooking in the Wine
Country, and Weir Cooking in the Wine Country II,
will be happy. In April, PBS began airing her next venture,
Weir Cooking in the City. Even better, the eponymous
companion book is already out. If it is a preview for her
show, this is good news.
The
Wine Country series had us fall in love with the
Napa
Valley. Her companion books were worthy counterparts.
Now Weir will indulge us with San
Francisco. And although this effort is relevant to any
city USA, let’s be honest. San Francisco is the perfect
venue for a food discussion. Its food scene is spectacular—great
restaurants, a stunning new farmers
market, access to everything edible, and loads of culinary
talent.
Check
out her other books:
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Her
mission in Weir Cooking in the City is simple.
"Wouldn’t you like," she says, "to
be able to make food with a lot of style but without so
much effort?" Trust her to pull this off. She spent
five years in the kitchen at Chez
Panisse and studied with Madeleine Kamman. It’s
unlikely Weir will entangle you in a complex, time-consuming,
trendy cooking adventure. Instead, she focuses on stocking
the “city pantry,” Mediterranean, Latin, and
Asian-style. She advocates impromptu entertaining, and makes
that possible without a meltdown. You will remember her
seven pages of wine advice. Joanne Weir has the privilege
of living in this jewel of a city, but she celebrates urban
life anywhere.
So,
what’s inside? A lot of fun, easily scalable dishes
serving six to eight people. Starters like Rice Paper Shrimp
Rolls, Parmesan Flan, and Smoked Eggplant with Pita Chips.
Salads that range from Warm Grilled Fennel Salad to Duck
Salad with Pecans and Kumquats. Her eleven soups include
an elegant Champagne Oyster Soup with Celery and Fennel,
and hearty Kale Soup with Pancetta and White Beans. Lobster,
Roasted Pepper, Tomato and Corn Chowder is worth the extra
effort and expense.
Weir
is inspired by choice and diversity, whether that means
new cooking techniques, exotic ingredients, or making an
old-fashioned Butter Pecan Ice Cream. In the chapter named
Mains and a Few Sides, you’ll find ethnically inspired
meals like Spice-Crusted Chicken Breasts with Cucumber Lemon
Raita, and Shanghai Noodles with Chicken, Cashews, Cilantro,
and Mint sharing space with Pan-Seared Pork Medallions with
Riesling and Apples, and Braised Veal Shanks with Olives
and Lemons. What about the “few sides?” Try
pairing Wasabi Mashed Potatoes with Soy-Marinated Flank
Steak with Asian Pesto. Minted Sugar Snap Peas are perfect
with a Roulade of Herbed Lamb with Stewed Garlic.
If
you are asking where is the seafood, it’s in the Herb-Crusted
Tuna Skewers with Tomato Aioli. Or Pepper-Salt Crabs inspired
by the late, great Barbara Tropp. It’s in the New
England bound Clam and Mussel Boil with Corn and Red Potatoes,
and in San Francisco’s own Cioppino with Crab, Clams,
and Shrimp.
Weir’s
mother used to say, “People always come for the dessert.”
Here’s why. Gary Danko-inspired Individual Warm Raspberry
Soufflés get sauced with raspberries. Warm Polenta
Custards with Grappa-Soaked Golden Raisins are much more
than that, with port-stewed dried fruits as a beguiling
complement. Don’t consider skipping Cranberry Upside-Down
Cake. Do remember to make the Nectarine Sorbet with Blueberry
Compote this summer.
There’s
more to like: Wine suggestions, well-written and tested
recipes, friendly, engaging introductions before you start
cooking, and lots of thoughtful tips and advice; in short:
a San Francisco feel with an inclusive attitude. That’s
enough reason to stay tuned for her show.
Reviewed by Kevin Schoeler
(Updated:
01/16/08 SB)
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