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Vegetables by 40 Great French Chefs
Celebrating
the Kitchen Gardens of the Ile-de-France
by Lyndsay and Patrick Mikanowski and Joël Thiébault
Reviewed
by Rachel Levin
The
farmers markets of Paris’ sixteenth arrondissement
overflow with colorful, seasonal produce grown in the Ile-de-France,
a historic farming region along the Seine just outside of
the city. So-called “truck farmers” faithfully
haul their precious cargo to market year round, rain or
shine, and bring their expertise on storing and cooking
vegetables to the home cooks and top chefs that regularly
visit their stalls.
But
truck farmers—like the highly respected Joël
Thiébault—who supervise the entire journey
of their vegetables from seedling to table are becoming
a rarity. Much of the idyllic landscape of small farms in
the Ile-de-France, captured by the Impressionists, has been
replaced by factories and housing projects. Globalized production
and distribution circuits that sell produce in bulk have
encroached upon the sacred connection between farmers, the
land and the fruits of their labors.
Vegetables
by 40 Great French Chefs seeks to preserve this chain
of unity by paying tribute to Joël, his farm in Carrières-sur-Seine
and 36 of the new or newly rediscovered varieties of vegetables
he grows. For each vegetable featured, Joël provides
background on its origins and history and then “hands”
the vegetable over to one of his favorite chefs—amateurs
and professionals alike—for transformation into edible
art.
The
varieties run from the familiar, like summer sprouting broccoli,
to the exotic, including Azur Star kohlrabi. Some vegetables
are rendered simply, like chef François Brouilly’s
scoop of Samos spinach sautéed with garlic and butter
and topped with a soft boiled egg. Others are put through
multiple variations on a theme; in the care of chef Jean-François
Piège, French garden peas are the basis for both
creamy French-style pea soup and garden pea ice cream. Organized
by season, recipes cover the spectrum from starters and
sauces, to main courses and side dishes, to breads, pastries
and savory tarts.
Photos
bursting with vibrant hues give these noble vegetables their
due. The authors call Joël a true aristocrat of the
kitchen garden, and this book allows you a brush with vegetable
royalty.
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