The River Cottage Meat Book
by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
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Western culture has industrialized, sanitized and reduced the meat-buying experience to a predictable array of vacuum-packed cuts gleaming under fluorescent supermarket lights. To Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, a farmer in Devon, England, this mechanized model of meat consumption not only robs meat of flavor but also strips us of our moral fortitude as keepers of earth’s living beings. In The River Cottage Meat Book, he presents his “Meat Manifesto,” entreating readers to buy meat from animals that have been raised ethically, shop directly through local farmers or knowledgeable butchers and consider the pleasures of adventurous cuts. His palate stretches way beyond the familiar beef, pork, lamb and poultry to include such game animals as rabbit, pigeon and woodcock, as well as offal including trotters (pigs’ feet), fries (testicles) and brains. Not for vegetarians (though the book does include Fearnley-Whittingstall’s thoughtful responses to the vegetarian philosophy), the book features crisp images of the slaughter process, carcasses hanging on meat hooks and a whole pig spit-roasted—a visual surprise for those of us who are so far removed from the process of how meat gets from the ranch to our tables.
While part one of the book focuses on understanding, choosing and storing meat, the second part is devoted to cooking methods for bringing out its utmost flavors. Roasting gets top billing as Fearnley-Whittingstall’s favorite technique, and this chapter showcases hearty classics like roast beef on the bone, herb roasted chicken and roast leg of lamb studded with rosemary. A chapter on slow cooking holds more adventurous possibilities like curry goat and paprikash of hearts, livers and tongues. Sections on fast cooking and barbecuing make good use of spices and sauces, with selections such as barbecued glazed spareribs and duck breasts with pineapple, chile and soy. The “Meat Thrift” chapter reminds us that trimmings and leftovers, historically the meat of peasants, have yielded comforting dishes the world over: Brazilian feijoada, Greek moussaka, British Shepherd’s pie and Spanish paella, among others. With additional recipes for home curing, pates, marinades and gravies, The River Cottage Meat Book is undoubtedly a meaty tome.
Reviewed by Rachel Levin
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