The
Palm Restaurant Cookbook
by Brigit Légère Binns
We
just spent a delightful weekend with The
Palm Restaurant Cookbook. We started Friday evening
by tossing down a few Famous McClure Cocktails—an ice-cold
(but not iced) concoction of brandy, gin, orange Curacao
and apricot liqueur. They were boozy, excellent no-nonsense
drinks, and they looked great in our oversized martini glasses.
Since we got such a late start, dinner was on the light
side by Palm standards: Hearts of Lettuce with Blue Cheese
Dressing followed by Horseradish-Crusted Salmon. We loved
how the crust kept the fish perfectly moist, and how the
tang of the horseradish and crunch of the breadcrumbs teased
the sweet and delicate salmon flesh. And it was so easy
to cook.
The
Palm Restaurant Cookbook is the latest from prolific
L.A.-based food writer Brigit Binns. She spent nearly five
years writing and researching her book, and he result is
an engaging Palm
restaurant story wrapped around a tasty and uncomplicated
cookbook. This doesn't mean shortcuts to preparing fancy
meals, but rather this is all about how to prepare the big,
colorful unfussy steakhouse and Italian food you'll find
at any Palm restaurant.
Telling
the tale of the Palm is one thing, but capturing its tradition,
personality and players while remaining focused and coherent
can be elusive. Not in this book. Binns shares the likeable
story of Palm founders John Ganzi and Pio Bozzi and the
restaurant empire they launched in 1926, which is family-run
to this day. If you know the Palm, Binns also answers the
questions you might ask—like how the caricature-covered
walls got started, how the restaurant got its name (not
what you think), and how the influence of various heavy-hitter
patrons has shaped its history.
The
cooking section is heavy on quotes from both patrons and
players, along with interesting factoids, recipe notes and
helpful culinary guidance. The 175-plus pages of recipes
are down-to-earth and make for good eating. The Palm
Restaurant Cookbook is both playful and worthwhile,
and it's good inspiration for lusty meals and manageable
cooking.
Back
to my weekend with the Palm Restaurant Cookbook.
Saturday lunch was salads. We loved the Grilled Beefsteak
Salad with Gorgonzola, Arugula, and Radicchio. Even though
tomatoes aren't fabulous at this time of year, we still
made the Buffalo Mozzarella with Tomatoes, Basil, and Extra-Virgin
Olive Oil, and rounded things off with Green Bean and Onion
Salad.
Saturday
night was all about starting with clams: Casino, Oreganato,
and Bianco. Then onto Pork Chops, Veal Marsala, Linguine
with White Clam Sauce, and a couple of sides: Spinach Aglio
e Olio, String Beans Marinara, and Sautéed Mushrooms.
As if that wasn't enough, we had Tiramisu and Apple-Cranberry
Crumble Pie for dessert. They were scrumptious, and homemade.
Everything turned out perfectly.
The
next day we ate leftovers (by the way Chapter Eight is entitled
Dishes Made with Leftovers), but Sunday night was another
feast. This time we supped on an ethereal Lobster Bisque
and some Roasted Red Peppers and Anchovies. After that we
had Steak au Poivre, Broiled Swordfish with Citrus Butter,
French-Fried Onions, and Key Lime Pie for dessert.
After
such a big weekend we're surprised we're ready for another
round. So, tonight, do we book a table at the Palm
in West Hollywood and let them wrestle with the giant lobsters
and Porterhouse steaks, or do we stay in and pursue some
Double-Cut Maryland Lamb Chops, medium rare with the Cottage
Fries and Creamed Spinach.
RECIPE:
HEARTS
OF LETTUCE WITH BLUE CHEESE DRESSING
Reviewed
by Kevin Schoeler
(Updated: 12/11/08 SB)
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