The New Food Lover's Companion

Comprehensive Definitions of Nearly 6000 Food, Drink, and Culinary Terms
by Sharon Tyler Herbst

You know how it's often advised not to go to the supermarket on an empty stomach because, in addition to overspending, you'll just torture yourself? Well, the same could be said of The New Food Lover's Companion: Comprehensive Definitions of Nearly 6000 Food, Drink, and Culinary Terms. Don't read it while hungry, you'll just frustrate yourself.

Former International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) president Sharon Tyler Herbst, who also authored the excellent The Food Lover's Tiptionary and The Wine Lover's Companion, shows off on virtually every one of the more than 700 pages why her book (a third, expanded edition of a more than decade-old classic) is often used as a source on TV know-it-all "Jeopardy." She thoroughly dissects every imaginable term, giving history, storage and cooking tips. Just try and find terms she doesn't cover—it's possible, but not probable. Here are a few examples:

Devils on Horseback: "1. A 'hot' version of Angels on Horseback (oysters wrapped in bacon strips), enlivened by the addition of red pepper or Tabasco sauce. 2. The British rendition of this appetizer consists of wine-poached prunes stuffed with whole almond and mango chutney, then wrapped in bacon and broiled. Like the American version, these Devils on Horseback are also served on toast points."

File powder [FEE-lay; fih-LAY]: "Choctaw Indians from the Louisiana bayou country are said to have been the first users of this seasoning made from the ground, dried leaves of the sassafras tree. It's since become an integral part of Creole cooking and is used to thicken and flavor gumbos and other Creole dishes. File has a woodsy flavor reminiscent of root beer. It must be stirred into a dish after it's removed from the heat because undue cooking makes file tough and stringy. File powder is available in the spice or gourmet section of most large supermarkets. As with all spices, it should be stored in a cool, dark place for no more than 6 months."

Laver [LAY-vuhr]: "This highly nutritious dried seaweed comes in tissue-thin sheets about 7-1/2 inches square. It has a fresh, tangy-sweet flavor and a dark purple color, which is why it's also called purple laver. The Chinese name for this seaweed is jee choy, which means 'purple vegetable.' Before using, laver must be soaked in cold water. After an hour of soaking, it doubles in size. Laver is often used in soups. Strips of it also can be deep-fried and served as an appetizer."

Pisco [Pee-skoh]: "A clear to pale straw-colored, potent South American brandy that dates back to the Incas. Piscos are produced primarily in Peru and Chile and most are made from a 100 percent muscat-based wine, although some are produced from a blend of grapes. They're briefly aged in clay jars and have a spicy, exotic flavor (often compared to that of beeswax) with orange blossom overtones."

Saga blue: "Hailing from Denmark, this soft, double-cream cheese can sometimes reach triple-cream status in richness. It has delicate blue veins and an elegant, mellow flavor. Saga blue has a tender, white, edible rind. It can be found in specialty cheese shops and many upscale supermarkets."

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