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Lisa Messinger's
Cookbook of the Week

The New Cooks' Catalogue: The Definitive Guide to Cooking Equipment

edited by Burt Wolf, Emily Aronson and Florence Fabricant (Knopf)

One-stop shopping: as the holidays approach, that's the dream of virtually every shopper. If your crowd includes those of the culinary persuasion, look no further for ideas than The New Cooks' Catalogue: The Definitive Guide to Cooking Equipment. Just a few examples from the book that you might want to put under a lucky chef's tree (or find under your own):

= Matfer Syrup Density Meter: This is an important tool for anyone serious about canning, preserving or sherbet-making. Technically known as a hydrometer, or water measurer, this item measures the amount of sugar in a solution. The 7-1/2-inch weighted and sealed glass tube is placed into a beaker filled with the solution to be tested. The more sugar in the solution, the higher the tube will float in the beaker. The measurement is registered on the Baumé scale. ( Matfer model numbers: 111350 Syrup Density Meter; 250112 test tube for Syrup Density Meter. Contact Matfer at 800-766-0333.)

= Oxo Good Grips Clam Knife: From the company that has brought numerous ergonomic tools to the kitchen comes this thin, but strong, single-edge knife. It's 2-1/2 inches long to slip between a clam's lip, where a clam's two shells meet, and a bare 5/8-inch wide so it won't overwhelm and crack a littleneck's shell. A cutting edge is present to free tender flesh from the shell once it's opened. As with the other kitchenware products produced by this firm, the handle of this knife is comfortably soft, close to the blade, and horizontally ridged to supply a nice, secure grip. (Oxo model number 35781. Contact Oxo at 800-545-4411 or visit www.oxo.com.)

= Thermos Hot Pot: If you are going out of the house and have no time to watch the stockpot, or if you are going to a football game or other outdoor event, or if you're simply bringing some food to someone else, this item may come in handy. You boil the ingredients in the stainless steel inner pot, then transfer the pan to the thermos and lock the lid. Several hours later the food is fully cooked and still very hot. We made vegetable stock inside it—it doesn't require the same time or finesse as meat stock—and after five hours we had flavorful broth holding at 160°F. Use it for soups, vegetable or fish stocks, baked beans or hot cider. Tote it anywhere. It holds 4.5 liters (4-1/2 quarts). (Thermos model number RPA4500S. Contact Thermos at 800-831-9242 or visit www.thermos.com.)

This book is incredibly well written (all products are tested) and especially well organized first in its chapters by product type, then in its multiple indexes. There's good reason for the quality: Wolf is an award-winning food journalist and television personality; Aronson has edited more than 50 food books; and Fabricant is an award-winning New York Times food writer and cookbook author. The dozens of contributing writers and product testers are a who's who of the culinary world like Marcella Hazan, Thomas Keller, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Jacques Pépin and Paul Prudhomme. One small complaint: Although prices may vary, manufacturer's suggested retail prices would have been welcome. This at least would give us a ballpark price, since for many that's a crucial consideration.


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