The New York Restaurant Cookbook

By Florence Fabricant

For New York restaurant lovers or admirers from afar (and who isn't one or the other?), Florence Fabricant's New York Restaurant Cookbook is a guide-plus-recipes to dining treasures just a taxi, train ride or walk away. Or it's a subtle reminder to visit New York soon and often.

Fabricant, respected food writer and cookbook author, has loved and appreciated food her entire life. The New York Restaurant Cookbook is her collaborative effort with NYC and Company to showcase recipes from a cross-section of restaurants that best represent New York. In it, she conscientiously considers all boroughs and the city's ethnic riches. In all there are 115 recipes; signature dishes ranging from '21's Lobster Cakes with Cucumber-Ginger Salad to Chicken Soup from the Second Avenue Deli.

Each recipe is introduced with an informative restaurant history. Included are helpful hints and suggestions for ingredients and preparation. With a bit of work, it's possible to track down a few undaunting recipes, such as Angelina's Veal Piccata or Carnegie Deli Cheesecake. But from a cooking perspective this is a book better suited for the experienced cook, voyeurs, or for those with ambition and a well-stocked pantry.

The New York Restaurant Cookbook is chock-full of mouthwatering dishes ranging from appetizers, soups and salads, to main dishes, sides and desserts. There's a nice section on eggs, sandwiches, pizza and brunch, especially since it includes Balthazar's Ouefs Cocotte and the Lobster Club Sandwich from An American Place.

Overall, The New York Restaurant Cookbook is a who's who of the New York Restaurant scene. Among other dishes, look forward to making Lidia Bastianich's toothsome Ricotta and Spinach Dumplings with Butter and Sage, Daniel Boulud's Short Ribs Braised in Red Wine, and Francois Payard's perfect Bittersweet Chocolate Soufflé.

Reviewed by Kevin Schoeler

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