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What's
worth reading now? Picks by award-winning food
writer
and columnist Lisa
Messinger.
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Nancy
Silverton's Sandwich Book
The Best Sandwiches
Ever
By
Nancy Silverton with Teri Gelber
(Knopf)
Grilled
cheese never had it so good. Or Monte Cristos. Or
BLTs. Or tuna melts. Or lemon cake club sandwiches
in a glass! To say Nancy Silverton has a way with
sandwiches is like saying Michelangelo had a way with
painting.
First,
let's start at the beginning. Silverton's brag-worthy
background begins from the bread up. For anyone who
doesn't know her breadcrumbs-to-riches story, the
quick rise started in a tiny space attached to Campanile,
her award-winning Los Angeles restaurant co-owned
with chef/husband Mark Peel. She dubbed the place
La Brea Bakery after the street name. Suffice it to
say that the rustic breads she handcrafted soon outgrew
their environs, moved into a big factory all their
own and now populate supermarkets.
Those
beloved breads led to Thursday sandwich nights at
Campanile where an egg sandwich isn't just an egg
sandwich, but Brandade, Sautéed Pea Tendrils,
Poached Egg and Moroccan Olives and a tuna melt morphs
into Olive-Oil-Poached Albacore Tuna, Remoulade and
Cheddar Cheese.
Silverton
already shared her bread secrets in a previous bestseller
(as well as one chronicling her almost equal bravado
with pastry), but none of that's your concern here
unless you whip out that book or make the few offerings
she gives here (loaves of brioche, crusty white or
tea sandwich bread). Sandwich makers aren't often
long on time, so feel free to buy to-die-for bread
(artisans like Silverton have made that possible even
in giant supermarket chains all over the country)
and begin construction from there. The filling's the
thing.
"Don't
look at them as complicated sandwiches, but as satisfying
entrées on bread," writes Silverton from
her typically unique perspective.
Oh,
and what entrées they are. A cauliflower puree
that's been infused with cream and yellow onions gets
topped with browned butter and a dusting of hazelnuts.
Artichokes are braised and served with ricotta, mint
pesto and pine nut-currant relish. A clam sandwich
is adorned with a garlic-butter sauce and homemade
Parmesan breadcrumbs. Home-roasted pork is piled high
on sourdough bread atop caramelized onions, sauteed
bitter greens and yam puree before being drizzled
with balsamic-sage brown butter and scattered with
sage leaves.
While
the gourmet quotient is often quite high, recipes
are well explained and easy to follow and most definitely
learning tools that will likely lead to unbridled
creativity and further experimentation on your own.
But hearty, simple sandwiches—equally loved
on crowded Campanile sandwich nights—make their
comforting presences known, too.
Smoked
ham is paired with gruyere and a creamy blend of whole-grain
mustard and butter. Gorgonzola, roasted radicchio,
honey and spicy candied walnuts lend themselves to
another easy example. Marinated onions and mustard
are all that jazzes up a classic grilled cheese sandwich.
Although
Silverton advises us to think of her sandwich fillings
as entrées, she deliciously breaks bread—and
that mantra—in the dessert chapter. Sandwich
night also inspired the pastry pro to branch out with
results like a chocolate brioche club sandwich that's
been soaked in milk, cream, cocoa and sugar before
being served surrounded by cream, and a lemon cake
club sandwich with fresh berries as its luscious layers.
Buy
the book.
Recipe
Olive-Oil-Poached
Albacore Tuna, Remoulade and Cheddar Cheese
Visit
the Cookbook
Corner for additional reviews
(Updated:
01/26/07)
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