Little Foods of the Mediterranean

500 Fabulous Recipes for Antipasti, Tapas,
Hors d'Oeuvre, Meze and More
by Clifford A. Wright

There's a big history behind little foods. Clifford A. Wright tells us "it seems that the Roman gustatio or gustus was the eating of appetizers, especially the roots of vegetables, fish and eggs." These days you are more likely to think about what's on the menu at A.O.C. or the like, but Wright will treat you to a worthwhile scholarly treatise before disclosing an impressive assemblage of recipes in Little Foods of the Mediterranean: 500 Fabulous Recipes for Antipasti, Tapas, Hors d'Oeuvre, Meze and More. In his latest of nine cookbooks, Wright once again sets out to prove that he is "passionate about the authentic cuisines of the Mediterranean."

Read Wright's introduction before you dig into the recipes. Although it's a bit dry, if you skip it you will miss a well-researched history lesson, interesting contextual information and other tidbits that will impassion you to take this culinary adventure across the Mediterranean region. Then you'll have 16 chapters where you and your palate can experiment with canapés, tapas, antipasti and meze—Andalusian Spiced Mushrooms on Fried Bread, Corsican Anchovy and Fig Canapés, Pork and Spinach Sausage from Provence and Fried Lamb Cigars from Algeria.

Cookbooks of this magnitude are frequently daunting, but here are 500 recipes deftly organized by type. Wright begins with bread-based delights—Canapés, Crostini, Bruschetta, Little Sandwiches, and Croûtes; and continues through Saucy Little Dishes; Fried Turnovers; Rollups and Wraps; and Pickled Marinated, and Preserved Little Dishes.

Each chapter is a journey in itself. In the Fried Turnovers section, first you'll learn about savory North African briks: deep-fried pastries with fillings ranging from seafoods to brains-and always including an egg. Then try your hand at phyllo-based meze from Turkey and Greece; Stuffed Fried Sicilian Pizza; and Spicy Meat Empanadillas from Andalusia. And so it goes as you explore Cheesy Mouthfuls, Stuffed Vegetables, Seafood Salads and Platters and much more. Wright also includes two chapters on basics: Sauces, Condiments, and Spice Mixes; and Pastry Doughs and Batters.

Recipes range from the very simple Sicilian Red Radishes with Fresh Peppered Pecorino to Chicken Croquettes from Emilia that require you to make a Béchamel Sauce, cook some chicken, and then assemble and deep-fry the croquettes. Nothing in the book is complicated beyond reason, nor does Wright push you to impress by getting precious. Recipes are clearly written, with engaging introductions and easy-to-follow instructions.

Poring over 500 recipes can make for an exhausting Mediterranean vacation. Thankfully, the last chapter includes 41 thoughtfully planned Suggested Party Menus. The next time you are housebound when wanderlust strikes, call up a handful or more of friends and treat them to A Rustic Italian Antipasto Party, A North African Winter Meze Party or A Tapas Party from the Islands. Clifford Wright has already done the hard work for you.

RECIPE: CORSICAN ANCHOVY AND FIG CANAPÉES

Reviewed by Kevin Schoeler

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