The Greenmarket Cookbook: Recipes, Tips, and Lore From The World Famous Urban Farmers' Market
By Joel Patraker and Joan Schwartz (Viking)












There are probably a lot more picturesque spots than the middle of New York City that pop into your mind when imagining yourself joyfully gathering bushels of fresh fruit and vegetables for your culinary adventures. Perhaps you conjure up images of fields of strawberries near the coast in California, or groves of oranges in Florida, or cherry tree-jammed acres in Maryland, to name a few.

But wise shoppers know that these idyllic spots have nothing over New York's urban jungle. Amidst the skyscrapers and honking cabs the curious will find not just baskets of Black Twig apples ("the Guinness stout of apples"), but the Wolf River and Northern Spy varieties as well. Welcome to the world of the famed Union Square Market, as well as the city's 27 other "greenmarkets."

Lost your subway tokens? No need to worry. Joel Patraker, one of the directors of the greenmarket program who's been based at the granddaddy Union Square Market for 20 years, and coauthor Joan Schwartz will be your tour guides through The Greenmarket Cookbook. And thanks to the scores of vivid photographs (many of people and produce shown in montage) by Marry Kim, this is one virtual tour that really makes you feel like you're walking down the packed aisles.

Patraker, who initially joined the market as special projects coordinator, has led many a tour in his day and you'll benefit from his expertise through countless charts, tips and a "Market Basket Edibles" glossary-style chapter. What are rosemary flowers? They are deep purple, tiny blossoms with intense flavor. Mizuna? A green with glossy, feathery leaves and a warm, nutty flavor which is best used raw. Which grapes should you use in your fruit salad? If you're going seedless, you can try Canadice ("bright red skin, fragrant, sweet, mild, winy flavor"); Einset ("bright red skin, thin waxy bloom, crisp juicy flesh with hints of strawberries); Himrod ("greenish-yellow skin and flesh, juicy bright flavor") or Vanessa ("deep-red, oval shape; crisp, juicy flesh; very sweet and fragrant").

Of course, if you really were sauntering around such a place, you probably wouldn't want to leave without a bunch of special recipes in your hot little hands. Patraker presents a treasure-trove that probably could only result after 20 years in such a setting. He's collected his customers' favorites, from Ruth Reichl's apricot pie, courtesy of Gourmet magazine's editor and former New York Times restaurant critic; to Paula Wolfert's Sicilian squash tendrils, courtesy of the famed ethnic cookbook author; and Cesare Casella's pickled shallots, courtesy of a regular who usually walks around the market with a big bouquets of herbs virtually flowering out of his jacket's oversized pockets.

The don't-miss collection runs the gamut from simple to complex recipes. Simple ones include the shallots flavored with basil, red pepper flakes and cloves or the squash tendrils cooked in boiled water, then mixed in with tomatoes that have been quickly cooked with sautéed onion. Complex ones include the Quattrociocchi family's roast pheasant with wild rice and pheasant sausage stuffing, courtesy of the owners of a game farm who sell their wares at the greenmarkets; or customer and JUdson Grill chef Bill Telepan's fried green tomato salad with goat cheese; or Verbena chef Diane Forley's sorrel soup with potherb dumplings.

Through the recipes, photographs and lore, Patraker's passion and respect for New York City's unique greenmarkets shine through on every page. He's created a loving scrapbook that, fortunately, will leave you eating anything but scraps.

RECIPES
—Pickled Shallots
—Apple-Maple Bread Pudding

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