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The
Girl and the Fig Cookbook
by Sondra Bernstein
The
lucky people near Sonoma have The
Girl & the Fig restaurant, a place to wind down
over a simple dish of Heirloom Radishes with Anchovy Butter
and Sea Salt, or maybe Fresh Figs with Fromage Blanc and
Pine Nuts, glass of Grenache in hand. The rest of us, meanwhile,
may dream of a life where it’s not a big deal to find
a perfect Endive Salad with Pears and Blue Cheese (with
Pomegranate Vinaigrette), and Broiled Halibut with Spring
Vegetable Ragout. At the right time of year, dessert might
be a glass of Tawny Port next to Warm Fig and Thyme Crisp
with Fig Syrup, or figs stuffed with honey-sweetened goat
cheese.
Wine
Country sensibility is so pervasive, so deeply rooted
in the region, it begs to be celebrated every day, and at
every meal. The remarkable culinary traditions of the Napa
and Sonoma Valleys begin in the fields, farms and vineyards,
and are skillfully translated by abundant talent in the
kitchens and wineries of this remarkable area.
Sonoma’s
The
Girl & the Fig restaurant, one of three in the area,
fills its menus and delights its patrons with house-made
charcuterie, salads of Grilled Asparagus with Lemon-Thyme
Vinaigrette, plates of Lamb Medallions with Sonoma Mustard
Sauce, Sonoma Rabbit Two Ways (legs braised, loins seared)
with Baby Artichoke Pan Sauce, and Wild Mushroom Ragout.
Its pastry chef turns out Profiteroles with Bittersweet
Chocolate Sauce, and Pear Clafouti. Their wine lists are
sensible but exciting. Occasionally, the forces behind such
a restaurant does the hard work it takes to write a cookbook,
making it possible to bring the Wine Country into our own
kitchens. This is the case with Sondra Bernstein’s
the girl and the fig cookbook: More than 100 Recipes
from the Acclaimed California Wine Country Restaurant.
The
book, like Bernstein’s restaurants, embodies the meaning
of “simple and sophisticated.” These words are
frequently used but rarely fulfilled by so many restaurants—especially
after you’ve spent an entire meal trying to sort out
precious combinations of flavor and texture, often from
foods deserving restrained treatment.
the girl and the fig cookbook approaches food and
cooking with French culinary skill and respect. As expected,
figs are abundant throughout—perhaps because Bernstein’s
first “fig experience” occurred in Florence.
Or maybe because she has eaten her way across the globe
and finds the greatest satisfaction working with fresh and
seasonal foods that also make it possible to eat a nutty,
vibrant Asparagus and English Pea Soup with Pistachio Butter
in Springtime, Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho in Summer, Apple-Yam
Gratin in Fall, and Potato Leek Soup in Winter. the girl
and the fig cookbook contains more than 100 recipes: twenty-some
you’ll want to line up for your next party; like Goat
Cheese Fritters, Herb-Marinated Olives, Pernod-Scented Mussels,
Pork and Dried Cherry Pâté, and Prosciutto-Wrapped
Figs.
Salads
like Green and Yellow Bean Salad with Peas and Sherry-Truffle
Vinaigrette remind us again of why we yearn for the warm-weather
seasons. Anything with Heirloom tomatoes (Heirloom Tomato
Salad with Feta and Balsamic Reduction) makes us dream of
endless summer.
For
the home cook, the girl and the fig cookbookok provides
an uncomplicated path to impressive food. Large Plates range
from rustic to brilliant: multi-dimensional Pasta with Fromage
Blanc, Brown Butter, Corn, and Spinach may be good accompanied
by scallops or grilled fish, but chances are you’ll
want to eat this gutsy pasta solo. Grilled Mahi Mahi with
Fire-Roasted Tomato Vinaigrette makes good use of even the
most mediocre tomatoes. And what more can one say about
a good, solid Coq au Vin or Braised Short Ribs recipe? For
side dishes, Bernstein covers Balsamic Onions, Roasted Asparagus,
luxuriant Fingerling Potato Confit, and Orange-Scented Braised
Endive.
Many
of the recipes are not groundbreaking, but they are solid,
reliable, and outstanding. And there’s great satisfaction
in finishing with a memorable dessert. Try Meyer Lemon Tartlets
with Blood Orange Sauce, Bellwether Farms Ricotta Cheesecake
with Peaches and Cream, or Roasted Figs with Honey and Vanilla
Ice Cream.
the
girl and the fig cookbook is about simple food done
well. Both the book as a whole, and its recipes, are uncomplicated
and compelling. Most recipes are scaled for six servings—perfect
for families (or fabulous leftovers). Seasonal menus and
wine pairings are thoughtful. Bernstein includes primers
on Artisan Cheese Makers, and the California Rhône
wines which dominate her wine lists.
Best
of all, this book is about food you’ll return to frequently.
It always tastes good. It’s always appropriate. If
you can’t be up in the Valley, eating like this all
the time, the girl and the fig cookbook is a great
solution.
Reviewed
by Kevin Schoeler
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