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Lisa Messinger's
Cookbook Corner

Essentials of Cooking

by James Peterson (Artisan)

Unlike most chefs, James Peterson started his career as a chemist. Soon, however, he ditched his lab coat for an apron and went to Paris to study cooking. He later worked in top restaurants in New York.

His possibly chemistry-related knack for breaking down and explaining cooking techniques was apparent when he became a top cooking teacher and crafted the curriculum for several prestigious schools including the French Culinary Institute in New York. That knack has already translated well to books. His Sauces: Classical and Contemporary emerged not only as the winner of its single-subject category, but also as best cookbook of the year in the competitive James Beard Awards. Vegetables, another Peterson book, won best in its category in the Beard awards. His Fish and Shellfish took the same honor at the prominent International Association of Cooking Professionals Awards.

Having mastered the single-subject technique cookbook, Peterson wisely decided to conquer the entire culinary world in Essentials of Cooking. Or most of it: Desserts seem to purposely been left for a follow-up book to this 300-page masterpiece.

Many tomes that purport to show readers step-by-step cooking are little more than picture books if their text doesn't have the right stuff. Peterson presents luscious photographs throughout, but also provides intelligent narration that virtually ensures you'll become a competent cook.

Chapters in Essentials of Cooking first tackle basics, then vegetables, fruits, seafood, poultry, eggs and meat.

You'll see and learn how to peel carrots (with a swivel-type peeler as opposed to a nonswivel peeler used for thicker skinned vegetables like potatoes and eggplant) and chop them into triangular pieces or slice them into rounds or half rounds. Ditto for zucchini, peppers, fava beans and dozens of other vegetables and fruits.

After mastering such basics, you'll move on to full-blown recipes such as Chunky Vegetable Soup, Creamed Spinach and Sautéed Zucchini with Parsley and Garlic. If you master this book, you will undoubtedly feel the pride of being a pro because Peterson doesn't baby you with exact ingredient amounts. He guides you through the techniques allowing you to decide precisely how much to add of any given ingredient.

Sautéed Zucchini With Parsley and Garlic, for instance, calls for you to "toss the zucchini in olive oil over high heat until the zucchini turns golden brown and smells fragrant. Gently stir in a few spoonfuls of persillade (which he describes for all who don't already know as a mixture of parsley and garlic). Continue tossing for a minute or two, until the smell of garlic fills the room. Serve immediately."

After being taught step-by-step how to ready soft-shell crabs, cook crayfish, roast a chicken or carve a rib roast, you'll find the same kind of decide-for-yourself-on-the-amount-of-ingredients recipes. However, as you can see by the directions for the following Red-Wine Pot Roast, this is easier than it sounds and will undoubtedly—as Peterson cleverly planned—leave you with the confidence of a seasoned cook.

RECIPES

Red-Wine Pot Roast
Stir-Fried Shrimp With Cashews

 

Previously featured:

City Tavern Cookbook: 200 Years of Classic Recipes From America's First Gourmet Restaurant

The Cake Mix Doctor

 

Cookbook Book Reviews Recipes Gayot

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