The
Craft of Cooking
By
Tom Colicchio (with Catherine Young, Lori Silverbush, Marco
Canora and Karen De Masco)
In
his first book, Think Like a Chef, chef/restaurateur
Tom Colicchio deconstructed the art of cooking in a well-organized,
accessible tome that focused on simplicity: simple techniques,
ingredients, combinations and recipes. This approach has
worked for his restaurant ventures at Gramercy
Tavern, Craft,
Craftbar and Craftsteak in Las Vegas—and it worked in the book.
This
time, in his latest cookbook, Craft of Cooking, Colicchio
takes the reader inside Craft. But he goes far beyond stringing
together a collection of recipes glued with editorial. Craft
of Cooking is an eminently readable cookbook that immerses
the reader in Colicchio's world of simply prepared exquisite
food.
Geared
toward the skilled amateur and more ambitious cook, Craft
of Cooking focuses on how things are done at Craft:
not only deceptively simple recipes, but readable treatises
on the restaurant itself—including interesting insider
looks at how the space was designed, reservations, the "family
meal" and more. Inside the book, Colicchio first tells
us to "make good food" and how to use it. He follows
philosophy and advice with clearly written recipes and relevant,
helpful head notes. Interlaced throughout are ingredient
and technique "portraits" and the essential resource
guide.
The
recipes are pure Craft—think braised short ribs, pan-roasted
ramps and cinnamon cake doughnuts. Like the Craft menu,
chapters are organized by meat, fish, vegetable, mushrooms,
potatoes, grains and beans and dessert. It's not difficult
to envision (or prepare) a meal of porcini risotto, sturgeon
wrapped in prosciutto, braised baby fennel and coconut
panna cotta. While nearly every recipe is uncomplicated
and minimal, Colicchio sets forth a challenge at the book's
beginning with a porchetta that calls for a brined thirty-pound
piglet!
Once
again, Colicchio (with Catherine Young, Lori Silverbush,
Marco Canora and Karen De Masco) has written a usable, unpretentious
cookbook that raises the bar on culinary appreciation.
Reviewed
by Kevin Schoeler
(Updated:
11/11/08 SB)
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