Good Enough to Eat Breakfast Cookbook
By Carrie Levin with William Perley (Warner Books)
in bed? Good. Breakfast at Good Enough to Eat? Better.
That's been the consensus of thousands of New Yorkers
for more than two decades as they munch on BLT omelets,
peach-mango muffins, challah hole-in-the-bread with
Grand Marnier bananas and other specialties at Good
Enough to Eat, Carrie Levin's popular uptown eatery.
and collaborator William Perley deserve ample tips
for serving up the best of Levin's tantalizing recipes
in this reasonably priced paperback. Photographs will
not be joining you at the breakfast table, but Levin's
descriptions alone often do the trick.
Renggli, the chef I apprenticed under at the Four
Seasons, taught me to impart a subtle ginger flavor
to certain fruits and vegetables by poaching them
in ginger ale," Levin writes of her Ginger Ale-Pear
Turnovers, which also deliciously include infusions
of brown sugar and cinnamon.
get a nice intense flavor from mushrooms by pressing
them with a wooden spoon or spatula while they are
squeeze the water out of them. To clean the surface
of mushrooms before slicing and cooking, rub them
with a paper towel dipped in water containing a few
drops of lemon juice," she advises regarding
her Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms and Parmesan.
of helpful tips like that accompany Levin's summaries
of her beautiful breakfasts. But don't think Levin's
been chained to the stove all these years. She includes
lots of gossip and memories from her lively New York
City life, especially about her romantic courtship
with husband Bill, whose aphrodisiacal breakfasts
are all in attendance.
throughout the book are proof of why the Belgium-born,
classically culinary trained Levin is so popular—and
why repeat customers never tire of the rich menu.
One french toast is made with homemade pumpkin bread
and crowned with pear-cranberry topping. A cinnamon-swirl
french toast has a marmalade sauce created from dried
blueberries, apricots and cherries—and English
breakfast tea. The aforementioned Challah Hole-in-the-Bread
with Grand Marnier Bananas is a french toast-inspired
showstopper in which custard and bananas fill the
hole. (Anyone who has had even plain french toast
made with challah, knows the soft egg bread is a superlative
are challenging, but highly doable. You will undoubtedly
pick up some valuable pointers and may just find yourself,
as Levin did, with a morning riot on your hands if
you alter the menu once your own breakfast crowd gets
hooked on it.
Chocolate Chip Muffins
(Updated: 02/17/09 KR)