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Chef Daniel Boulud

Cooking in New York City

By Daniel Boulud and Peter Kaminsky

Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York City

We begin our day with chef Daniel Boloud at 6 a.m. with the baking of delicious cakes and breads like olive rosemary bread or chocolate cherry bread. Then there's shopping to be done, fish and shellfish and fresh vegetables and meats from local markets and vendors. We see where he buys his tasty flounders and learn to make a tuna bagnat or delicate piballes (baby eels) that melt in your mouth. We move through lunch in the city that never sleeps and you might encounter butternut squash soup with exotic spices, apples and cilantro cream or tomato tartin and sugar cane-grilled shrimp with peanut sauce. We pursue his path through a kitchen staff meeting, an afternoon wine event, a black-tie charity function until his 17-hour day culminates in an after-hours chefs' supper. This is a mouthwatering book, full of fascinating tidbits and anecdotes by the famous chef as he takes you through a typical whirlwind day. It is also very much a book about New York, its sights, whims and idiosyncrasies. He writes: "I'm inspired by New York City, by the great institution that it is, and it's what really drives me. I want Daniel to be a part of the history of great French food in New York, to be in the chapter of the great French restaurants of this city."

Aside from all the dramatic recipes for baby eels and tartes and whatnot we were especially intrigued by the db burger. "I always thought I would love to intrigue my customers by making a burger at Daniel, but I had to make it the fanciest burger on earth. I was not going to make a burger without truffles and foie gras." So here it is: a burger with foie gras, truffles, confit, short ribs braised in wine, tomato and horseradish on a semolina bun with parmesan, served with pommes soufflés, devoured best with a bottle of Côtes du Rhône "Belleruche" 2000 from M. Chapoutier. Even if you're not up to spending $450 for a pound of truffles from Périgord, you will delight in one of the 75 recipes compiled in this wonderful book, especially if you're not traveling to New York any time soon to dine at one of Boulud's three restaurants, Daniel, db Bistro Moderne or Café Boulud.

(Updated: 11/04/08 SB)

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