The Balthazar Cookbook
By Keith McNally, Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson

Reviewed by Kevin Schoeler

Keith McNally is the reticent celebrity restaurateur behind a string of booming Manhattan eateries including Balthazar, Pastis, (and the new and forever-mobbed Schiller's Liquor Bar) and earlier successes including Lucky Strike, Nells, Odeon, Café Luxembourg and Pravda. Now he's teamed up with his chefs de cuisine Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson and turned out the handsome Balthazar Cookbook.

Balthazar, of course, has been the Manhattan brasserie-of-the-moment since it opened in 1997. Its admirers are loyal, intense and far-flung but, in six years, its well-earned popularity has not spoiled the front-of-the-house or the delicious, reliable food. The same sensibility that makes Balthazar so welcoming has been infused into this new cookbook.

The Balthazar Cookbook is pleasing from the start, with its sturdy red cloth cover, mouthwatering photographs and glossy pages filled with Moules a la Mariniere, Escargots, Steak Frites and Profiteroles. These recipes are to be expected, but they include masterful instruction, useful notes and explanations that respect the home cook. And along the way you get that vicarious thrill of being part of Balthazar.

It's easy to grasp the brasserie concept with The Balthazar Cookbook's one hundred-plus recipes for appetizers, soups, fish, poultry, meats, vegetables and desserts. There's also a nice breakfast surprise in the Oeufs en Meurette-eggs poached in red wine with mushrooms and bacon and Sauce Bordelaise. Many recipes are quite simple and require few ingredients, like Sole À La Meunière, Côte de Boeuf and Chocolate Pot de Crème. Others need more time, a small lineup of ingredients, advance preparation and a bit more thought (like Duck À L'Orange and the sublime Goat Cheese Tart with Caramelized Onions). The Sauces and Garnitures section covers a decent assortment of stocks, vinaigrettes, confits and the like-just what you'll need to dress that salad or pair up with a piece of fish.

Overall, The Balthazar Cookbook is a satisfying repertoire of conservative dishes including Mushroom Soup, Brandade, Coq au Vin and Macaroni Gratin. The rich homey foods and classic dessert recipes are tested and delicious, and they translate well in the home kitchen. Because it was written with the intent to share and teach, The Balthazar Cookbook is not just another fancy book for the coffee table-it is a pleasant and useful addition to a cook's library.

RECIPE: SOLE A LA MEUNIERE

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