The
Balthazar Cookbook
By Keith McNally, Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson
Keith
McNally is the reticent celebrity restaurateur behind a
string of booming Manhattan eateries including Balthazar,
Pastis,
(and the new and forever-mobbed Schiller's Liquor Bar) and
earlier successes including Lucky
Strike, Nells, Odeon,
Café
Luxembourg and Pravda.
Now he's teamed up with his chefs de cuisine Riad Nasr and
Lee Hanson and turned out the handsome Balthazar Cookbook.
Balthazar,
of course, has been the Manhattan brasserie-of-the-moment
since it opened in 1997. Its admirers are loyal, intense
and far-flung but, in six years, its well-earned popularity
has not spoiled the front-of-the-house or the delicious,
reliable food. The same sensibility that makes Balthazar
so welcoming has been infused into this new cookbook.
The
Balthazar Cookbook is pleasing from the start, with
its sturdy red cloth cover, mouthwatering photographs and
glossy pages filled with Moules a la Mariniere, Escargots,
Steak Frites and Profiteroles. These recipes are to be expected,
but they include masterful instruction, useful notes and
explanations that respect the home cook. And along the way
you get that vicarious thrill of being part of Balthazar.
It's
easy to grasp the brasserie concept with The Balthazar
Cookbook's one hundred-plus recipes for appetizers,
soups, fish, poultry, meats, vegetables and desserts. There's
also a nice breakfast surprise in the Oeufs en Meurette-eggs
poached in red wine with mushrooms and bacon and Sauce Bordelaise.
Many recipes are quite simple and require few ingredients,
like Sole À La Meunière, Côte de Boeuf
and Chocolate Pot de Crème. Others need more time,
a small lineup of ingredients, advance preparation and a
bit more thought (like Duck À L'Orange and the sublime
Goat Cheese Tart with Caramelized Onions). The Sauces and
Garnitures section covers a decent assortment of stocks,
vinaigrettes, confits and the like-just what you'll need
to dress that salad or pair up with a piece of fish.
Overall,
The Balthazar Cookbook is a satisfying repertoire
of conservative dishes including Mushroom Soup, Brandade,
Coq au Vin and Macaroni Gratin. The rich homey foods and
classic dessert recipes are tested and delicious, and they
translate well in the home kitchen. Because it was written
with the intent to share and teach, The Balthazar Cookbook
is not just another fancy book for the coffee table-it is
a pleasant and useful addition to a cook's library.
RECIPE:
SOLE
A LA MEUNIERE
Reviewed
by Kevin Schoeler
(Updated: 10/30/08 SB) |
