Antipasti

Fabulous Appetizers and Small Plates

by Joyce Goldstein

Small plates were once the prelude to a meal. Today, as cookbook author Joyce Goldstein informs us in Antipasti, dining on an assortment of petite dishes has become the new way to eat in Italy. The trend is spilling over into culinary destinations in America as well with the proliferation of wine bars that proffer savory bites alongside a collection of vintages. Beyond the restaurant scene, fixing a variety of small plates at home is now a popular way to cook for every occasion, from a casual weeknight dinner to a large, formal party. Goldstein's book provides the home cook with tips for stocking the kitchen with staples for "shop-and-serve antipasti." Having a selection of cured meats, jarred veggies, cheeses, nuts, and olive oils on hand makes preparing a sophisticated selection of diminutive dishes both simple and quick.

For those willing to expend a bit more time and effort, Goldstein's recipes include a mixture of the time-honored and the cutting edge. Classic custards and frittatas as well as fashionable fried zucchini blossoms make versatile use of eggs and cheese. Typical Italian grains including Arborio rice, cornmeal and farro (an ancient variety of wheat) make an appearance in such appealing dishes as truffled rice croquettes, fried polenta with cheese spread and farro salad. Traditional recipes for stuffed and marinated vegetables are offered along with newer trends like warm vegetable salads and sformati (steamed vegetable puddings). Dishes like prosciutto-wrapped shrimp, meat-stuffed fried olives and duck breast salad incorporate seafood, meat and poultry in amounts small enough to keep them light. Each recipe is also accompanied by ideas for variations and wine pairing recommendations. With small plates in the spotlight, the prelude has become the finale.

Reviewed by Rachel Levin

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