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A Real American Breakfast: The Best Meal of the Day, Any Time of the Day
by Cheryl Alters Jamison, Bill Jamison
(William Morrow & Co)

Reviewed by Sylvie Greil

Breakfast these days, Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison write, is a rather sad affair--eaten in a rush or while reading the paper or email, it is often the same "repetitious routine that we would never follow at lunch or dinner, [the consumption] of the same few mainstays every day for years at a time." Some of us, of course, do pay close attention to how we start the day, but often the focus is on fiber content instead of flavor, "treating breakfast like a virtue tonic or a daily vitamin." How very true! Heartier breakfasts are reserved for the occasional Sunday brunches or when entertaining house guests, forgetting that breakfast is indeed the most important meal of the day, or as grandma used to say: Eat breakfast like a king, lunch like lord, and dinner like a pauper. Who has time, you retort, to prepare an elaborate meal in the wee a.m. hours? Not possible.

But it is; and the options are numerous and mouthwatering and in many cases neither heavy nor calorie-laden. The prolific James Beard award-winning Jamisons are considered the most respected authorities on American regional home cooking and it shows in their careful attention and them drawing their inspiration from all across the American melting pot: from the LEO scramble (lox, eggs, onions), to the Kentucky Hot Brown Strata of Louisville, Breakfast Polenta Southwest Style, Cornmeal Hoe Cakes, Buttermilk Cornbread, Herbed Popovers, scrambles, cakes, waffles, muffins, steak, salmon, poached guavas with cream cheese, steeped prunes… What's important to note is that the recipes for creamy grits, hash browns or fried green tomatoes really let these classics shine in their top form.

We leave this book within easy reach on our kitchen counter; our taste buds watering and with a firm resolve to toss the bran flakes and skim milk tomorrow in favor of an easy, savory brown butter scramble with avocado. There is no better book on breakfast.

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A Real American Breakfast

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